Fifteen days after Diwali, on the full moon of Kartik, Varanasi lights its riverfront with lamps — for the gods, who are said to descend to bathe in the Ganga.
Diwali is the festival of lights for people. Dev Deepawali — the Diwali of the gods — is the one Varanasi keeps for the divine. It falls on Kartik Purnima, the full moon about two weeks after Diwali, when the gods are believed to descend to the earth to bathe in the Ganga.
The festival is also linked to Shiva's victory over the demon Tripurasura, which is why the day is called Tripurari Purnima. In Shiva's own city, that victory is celebrated on the river.
A city of lamps
By dusk, volunteers have set out clay diyas along the steps of the ghats — lakhs of small flames, ghat after ghat, until the whole crescent of the riverfront is outlined in light. The evening Aarti is performed on a grand scale, and fireworks open over the water.
“From the middle of the river, the city looks less lit than alive — every step of every ghat breathing with flame.”
How to see it
The best view is from a boat, but the river is crowded and boats are booked weeks or months in advance. If you prefer the steps, choose a ghat away from Dashashwamedh and arrive in the afternoon. The days before the full moon bring the Ganga Mahotsav, a festival of music and dance on the ghats — a gentler way into the celebrations.
About this story
Written for the WanderMate Journal by our team in Varanasi, where we plan and run journeys along the Ganga. We check facts against official and published sources, listed below, and revise guides when timings, prices or dates change.
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